The history of polyester macros: a revolution in climbing wall design
Climbing has always been about adapting to challenges, and as the sport moved indoors, the need for versatility grew. One of the most transformative innovations in indoor climbing was the introduction of macros —large, modular, polyester structures that added depth and creativity to climbing walls. These polyester volumes revolutionized route setting, pushing climbers to approach problems in new ways, and became an integral part of modern climbing.
What are macros?
Before diving into their history, it’s important to understand what climbing volumes are. Macros are a type of volumes, three-dimensional shapes attached to climbing walls to alter their surface and provide additional features for route setting. Unlike traditional climbing holds, which are relatively small and specific, macros are larger structures that can change the wall’s geometry, creating new angles, textures, and possibilities for movement. Polyester, a lightweight and durable material, became the go-to choice for constructing macros due to its versatility and ease of production.
The early days: flat walls and limited creativity
When climbing walls first appeared in the 1960s and 1970s, they were mostly flat or featured slight overhangs. Early route setters had to work within these constraints, relying on holds to create challenges. However, this limited the variety and complexity of routes that could be set, particularly as the sport grew more competitive. By the 1980s, the demand for more dynamic climbing experiences led to experimentation with altering the wall’s structure. Some setters began attaching wooden blocks or fixed extensions to walls, but these were heavy, inflexible, and difficult to modify.
The birth of polyester macros
The introduction of polyester climbing volumes in the 1990s was a game-changer. Inspired by advancements in fiberglass and polyester resin technology, manufacturers realized they could create lightweight, hollow structures with incredible strength. Macros were not only easier to mount and adjust but also offered a level of creativity that was previously impossible.
Europe, particularly France and Germany, played a significant role in the early development of polyester volumes. French companies and German manufacturers began producing macros in various shapes and sizes, quickly integrating them into climbing gyms and competitions.
The impact on route setting
Polyester volumes transformed route setting into an art form. By introducing large, modular structures, route setters could now create routes that demanded more than strength—they required balance, coordination, and strategic thinking.
Macros allowed setters to create:
Dynamic Moves: Jumps, mantles, and balance-intensive sequences.
Innovative Terrain: Simulating natural rock features like slabs, cracks, and overhangs.
Route Diversity: Adjustable placements made it easy to set routes for climbers of all skill levels.
For the first time, route setters could use volumes to fundamentally change the character of a wall, breaking free from the constraints of its original design.
The rise of competition climbing
The rise of macros coincided with the growth of competitive climbing in the late 1990s and early 2000s. Competitions needed visually striking routes that challenged elite climbers while remaining engaging for spectators. Polyester volumes became a staple of competition walls, offering dramatic shapes and forcing climbers to adapt to unconventional moves. Macros also became a signature of bouldering competitions, where short, intense problems often required creative and dynamic solutions.
Design evolution: from basic shapes to bold creations
Early polyester volumes were relatively simple, often geometric shapes like triangles, cubes, or domes. Over time, as manufacturing techniques improved, macros became more complex. Today, they come in a wide range of forms, from sleek, minimalistic designs to intricate, organic shapes that mimic natural rock formations.
Manufacturers began experimenting with textures, creating macros with smooth surfaces for frictionless challenges or rough textures for grip-intensive moves. This versatility allowed route setters to tailor macros to specific climbing styles, from technical slab problems to powerful overhangs.
Polyester vs. modern materials
While polyester was the primary material for volumes in the 1990s and early 2000s, it has since faced competition from newer materials like high-density plywood and polyurethane. These materials offer similar durability with additional benefits, such as easier manufacturing and recyclability.
Despite this shift, polyester macros remain popular for their lightweight design and versatility. Many climbing gyms continue to use polyester macros alongside newer materials, benefiting from the diversity they bring to wall design.
The legacy of polyester macros
Polyester volumes have left an indelible mark on the climbing world. They brought a new dimension to indoor climbing, turning flat walls into dynamic canvases for creativity. By enabling setters to challenge climbers with unique movements and strategies, macros helped elevate indoor climbing to an art form.