How climbing became an Olympic sport
For decades, climbing was seen as an extreme sport reserved for adventurers scaling high peaks and remote cliffs. However, its transformation into a structured competitive discipline led to its eventual inclusion in the Olympic Games. Today, sport climbing is one of the fastest-growing sports worldwide, attracting climbers of all ages and skill levels. But how did this niche activity earn its place on the world’s biggest sporting stage?
Climbing competitions trace their roots back to the 1980s, when climbers began organising indoor contests to test their abilities in a controlled environment. One of the first major competitions was held in 1985 in Bardonecchia, Italy, where climbers raced up artificial walls in a speed-focused event. This laid the foundation for structured competitive climbing.
By the 1990s, indoor climbing had gained widespread popularity, leading to the formation of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) in 2007. The IFSC standardised rules and regulations, paving the way for the sport’s inclusion in major international events such as the World Games and Asian Games.
The road to Olympic recognition
For a sport to be included in the Olympics, it must meet strict criteria set by the International Olympic Committee (IOC). These include global participation, a strong governing body, and appeal to younger audiences.
Sport climbing had been on the IOC’s radar for years, but it wasn’t until the 2010s that serious discussions about its Olympic inclusion began. The push gained momentum when Tokyo was awarded the 2020 Summer Olympics. As part of the IOC’s initiative to introduce new, youth-oriented sports, sport climbing was officially added to the Tokyo 2020 programme in 2016.
The Olympic climbing format
For its Olympic debut, sport climbing featured a combined format that included three disciplines:
- Speed climbing – Climbers raced up a 15-metre wall as quickly as possible.
- Bouldering – Athletes solved short, powerful climbing problems on a low wall without ropes.
- Lead climbing – Competitors attempted to climb as high as possible on a tall wall within a time limit.
The format required climbers to excel in all three disciplines, which was controversial since many athletes specialised in only one or two. Despite this, the Olympic debut in Tokyo 2020 (held in 2021 due to COVID-19) was a massive success, drawing global attention to the sport.
The future of sport climbing in the Olympics
Following its successful debut, sport climbing was confirmed for Paris 2024, but with a slight format change. The event was split into two competitions:
- Speed climbing as a standalone event.
- Bouldering and lead climbing combined.
This change was well-received as it allowed climbers to compete in their preferred disciplines without being forced into a three-in-one format.
As the sport continues to grow, there is speculation that more climbing events or additional medal categories could be introduced in future Olympics.
