Big holds, big moves? What the size of volumes, macros and holds really says about route difficulty
Walk into any modern climbing gym and you’re likely to see an explosion of color, geometry, and—let’s be honest—some outrageously big plastic blobs on the wall. Welcome to the age of volumes, macros, and mega holds, where the size of the hold doesn’t always match the size of the challenge.
So… does bigger mean easier? Or is that giant blue pancake a cruel joke from your route setter? Let’s break down how hold size relates to difficulty—and why size really does matter, but probably not in the way you think.
Bigger holds, bolder movement
Let’s start with the basics: large volumes and macros often encourage dynamic, expressive movement. Climbers don’t just grab them—they smear, mantle, palm, heel-hook, and even bear-hug them. In short: big holds = big commitment.
A giant sloping macro might look comfy from the mats, but up close, it could be slick, slopey, and directionally evil.
In these cases, size gives you surface area—but not necessarily grip security.
The difficulty may lie not in holding on, but in how you position yourself to use the hold effectively.
Tiny holds, technical precision
On the flip side, small crimps, edges, and screw-ons often scream “difficult,” and for good reason. These require finger strength, precision, and often static control.
But here’s the twist: that doesn’t always mean a small hold makes the route harder. If it’s placed on an over-sized volume or as a foot chip on an easier route, it may simply be a supporting character in a relatively mellow climb.
Also: difficulty is relative to wall angle. A small crimp on a slab? Doable. That same crimp on a 45-degree overhang? That’s a full-blown finger duel.
It’s all about context
Climbing difficulty is like a recipe—it’s not just about ingredients (holds), but how they’re mixed.
– A giant dual-tex macro on a slab? May demand delicate, balance-heavy finesse.
Consider this:
– A juggy volume in a roof? Might offer a breather… or be a trap if the next move is a deadpoint to nowhere.
– Tiny screw-ons up a vertical wall? Possibly easier than they look if body position is optimized.
What’s really determining difficulty is the interaction between size, wall angle, distance, hold texture, and movement type.
Route setters: the magicians behind the madness
Behind every satisfying send (or desperate flail) is a route setter who’s making intentional decisions about:
– what your hands and feet touch
– what you’re forced to do with your body
– and how terrified you look at move #4
Setters often use large holds to control movement rather than reduce difficulty.
That huge round hold at hip height? It’s there to force a drop-knee.
That giant triangular volume? A trap to make you miss the undercling two feet higher.
They’re artists. Tricksters. Psychologists.
